A little light drywalling
Oct. 19th, 2023 08:30 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
which_chickSince I've gotten the wire run for the book room project except for the junction box where the (currently in service) heater used to be, I can close up the holes that I made to thread the wire where it needed to go. And I did that last night.
It's not very exciting to patch drywall -- you can watch a couple of youtubes (Please not the youtubes that have you tear off extra wallboard and leave the paper around the edges of the board you need, that's bullshit, do not do that. Paste and tape your seams like an adult ffs.) if you are really interested in knowing more, but basically the procedure is as follows:
1. Square up the hole. (It's a lot easier to cut squares out of drywall than it is to cut irregular shapes.) I didn't have to do this because I already cut square holes on purpose. :)
2. Install backer board at two opposing edges of the hole. You may secure the backer board to the existing drywall (if it's dry and not soggy) OR you can cut back the existing drywall to halfway on a stud (pain in the ass) OR you can cut back to the very edge of the stud and then scab your backer board onto the existing stud. Options, you have them. Since my drywall was very dry and had never been wet, I took the "secure the backer board to the existing drywall" method. It's easier.
Important: Your backer board needs to be wood so that the screws will "sink" below the surface of the drywall and be past-over-able. If your screw heads protrude above the level of the drywall it looks like shit and you will never be able to cover them.
3. Cut replacement drywall in the size/shape of the hole.
4. Check for fit. It's ok if there are some smallish gaps. Gaps should not exceed 1/4" unless you're dealing with some kind of asshattery that you cannot avoid (like working to plaster or lack of squareness or have to cover up metal reinforcement on plastered corners or something). Mostly it's best to just recut the hole or the patch so that you don't have huge gaps. Drywall is cheap.
5. Screw drywall patch to backer boards. You need at a minimum 4 screws for your patch, one per corner. If patch is bigger than a foot or so, add two more screws, one per each long side. Your patch should not ever be longer than 16" in at least one direction or you'll have Real Studs to screw to (if modern construction).
6. Paste/tape seams. Allow to dry.
7. Sand lightly to remove ridges, paste finish coat (hopefully).
8. Sand final time. (You may need to repeat 6-7-8 if you suck at drywall or if there are Other Problems going on.)
9. Prime and paint.
This is not my first rodeo and I expect to be ready to paint by the end of the weekend.
The thermostat is supposed to arrive today, so I'm pretty excited about that.
In other news, it is Stayman Winesap Season. Hooray!
(These are apples. They are my favoritest apple in the world.)
It's not very exciting to patch drywall -- you can watch a couple of youtubes (Please not the youtubes that have you tear off extra wallboard and leave the paper around the edges of the board you need, that's bullshit, do not do that. Paste and tape your seams like an adult ffs.) if you are really interested in knowing more, but basically the procedure is as follows:
1. Square up the hole. (It's a lot easier to cut squares out of drywall than it is to cut irregular shapes.) I didn't have to do this because I already cut square holes on purpose. :)
2. Install backer board at two opposing edges of the hole. You may secure the backer board to the existing drywall (if it's dry and not soggy) OR you can cut back the existing drywall to halfway on a stud (pain in the ass) OR you can cut back to the very edge of the stud and then scab your backer board onto the existing stud. Options, you have them. Since my drywall was very dry and had never been wet, I took the "secure the backer board to the existing drywall" method. It's easier.
Important: Your backer board needs to be wood so that the screws will "sink" below the surface of the drywall and be past-over-able. If your screw heads protrude above the level of the drywall it looks like shit and you will never be able to cover them.
3. Cut replacement drywall in the size/shape of the hole.
4. Check for fit. It's ok if there are some smallish gaps. Gaps should not exceed 1/4" unless you're dealing with some kind of asshattery that you cannot avoid (like working to plaster or lack of squareness or have to cover up metal reinforcement on plastered corners or something). Mostly it's best to just recut the hole or the patch so that you don't have huge gaps. Drywall is cheap.
5. Screw drywall patch to backer boards. You need at a minimum 4 screws for your patch, one per corner. If patch is bigger than a foot or so, add two more screws, one per each long side. Your patch should not ever be longer than 16" in at least one direction or you'll have Real Studs to screw to (if modern construction).
6. Paste/tape seams. Allow to dry.
7. Sand lightly to remove ridges, paste finish coat (hopefully).
8. Sand final time. (You may need to repeat 6-7-8 if you suck at drywall or if there are Other Problems going on.)
9. Prime and paint.
This is not my first rodeo and I expect to be ready to paint by the end of the weekend.
The thermostat is supposed to arrive today, so I'm pretty excited about that.
In other news, it is Stayman Winesap Season. Hooray!
(These are apples. They are my favoritest apple in the world.)
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Date: 2023-10-19 04:08 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2023-10-20 01:32 am (UTC)