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which_chickOkay. I can't stand the suspense any longer. Also, the voice in my head is really getting annoying. Let's talk about the damn calf decreases.
Today was a gorgeous and picture-perfect fall day during which I sat inside and played with stitch charts and a flexible measuring tape and a sharpie and maths. I contemplated the mysteries of negative ease. I have tenatively checked the fucking plan for the fucking decreases and it is good and will suit (with or without modifications based on a more exact row gauge as soon as I get one.). Right, then.
Can we see the plan, then, eh?
What? You aren't willing to take my word that there's the foundation for a plan and that it's good?
No.
*sigh* Right. I took the nicely-fitting eyestrain purple socks -- Half of the shit you talk about is based on these damn socks. What if we don't HAVE eyestrain purple knee socks that happen to fit like the Lord God Himself made them for you? What then? Then you make some eyestrain purple socks that fucking fit your legs BEFORE you start with these directions. I should not have to do all the heavy lifting, here. -- and I put one of them on. Oooh, I do nice work. I marked my leg with the sharpie where it came up to so that I would know where the top of the new socks was going to be. Then I marked off in 2" increments down my leg so that I'd have some basis for measuring around my leg. I measured around my leg at each increment and wrote that number (in sharpie) on my leg. It's just about fourteen inches down my leg from the top of the socks to the split for the heel flap (about an inch below the inside ankle bump). At the top of the sock, leg is about 14" around. Two inches down, it's 15", two down from that, it's 14.5". I am going to pretend for the first three inches of actual sock (there's about an inch of ribbing before the pattern part starts) that my leg is 14" around. It's knitting. It'll stretch a little, I reckon, and I'm not fucking up my gorgeously charted pattern for a minor issue like *fit*. After that, going down (no gag reflex, natch) in two-inch-down increments, I got 13", 11", 9.5", and then 9" on until to the heel flap split.
Using math, I generated decreases to match up to the distance-around. The first decrease I'm going to do anything with is the 14.5 to 13 one. That's an inch and a half, which, at ten stitches to the inch (which is probably close to right) and paired (because there are two strips of where-we-are-decreasing on each sock) for even numbers, is 8 instances (tenative, based on swatch gauge) of decreasing over (tenative) 20 rows of knitting. I charted that on my shitty little MS-Paint graph. Point-click-point-click. The next set of decreases is from 13" to 11", twenty stitches, ten instances of decreasing over 20 rows of knitting. I charted that, too. I continued on until I got to where there was no more charting to be done. (Because I wasn't really thinking, I assigned the top of the pattern work to be the top of the chart, though there is an inch or so of ribbing above it. For that reason, the portrayed decreases are about an inch below where they should be. This is not a major problem and since I don't have a rock-solid row gauge yet, I ain't all that pressed.)
When it comes time to implement this game plan in real life, I will knit down until I have four inches of sock from the beginning and then start the decreases at an appropriate rate no matter where I might be in the pattern. I have 1 3/4 inches of sock, here, so it's not like urgent, but all ya'll wanted a plan. (Sissies. Where's your spirit of adventure?) At any rate, here's a shitty MS-Paint image for proof-of-concept.
Then, because I'm a complete dweeb, I charted the damn thing collapsed (instead of leaving blank red space where the removed stitches were) to see if there were unpretty interactions in the assorted patterns. There aren't. Here's a picture of what that might look like. I believe I can tidy up the bit at the bottom where it goes into a nice chevron interaction, but I haven't done that yet.
Today was a gorgeous and picture-perfect fall day during which I sat inside and played with stitch charts and a flexible measuring tape and a sharpie and maths. I contemplated the mysteries of negative ease. I have tenatively checked the fucking plan for the fucking decreases and it is good and will suit (with or without modifications based on a more exact row gauge as soon as I get one.). Right, then.
Can we see the plan, then, eh?
What? You aren't willing to take my word that there's the foundation for a plan and that it's good?
No.
*sigh* Right. I took the nicely-fitting eyestrain purple socks -- Half of the shit you talk about is based on these damn socks. What if we don't HAVE eyestrain purple knee socks that happen to fit like the Lord God Himself made them for you? What then? Then you make some eyestrain purple socks that fucking fit your legs BEFORE you start with these directions. I should not have to do all the heavy lifting, here. -- and I put one of them on. Oooh, I do nice work. I marked my leg with the sharpie where it came up to so that I would know where the top of the new socks was going to be. Then I marked off in 2" increments down my leg so that I'd have some basis for measuring around my leg. I measured around my leg at each increment and wrote that number (in sharpie) on my leg. It's just about fourteen inches down my leg from the top of the socks to the split for the heel flap (about an inch below the inside ankle bump). At the top of the sock, leg is about 14" around. Two inches down, it's 15", two down from that, it's 14.5". I am going to pretend for the first three inches of actual sock (there's about an inch of ribbing before the pattern part starts) that my leg is 14" around. It's knitting. It'll stretch a little, I reckon, and I'm not fucking up my gorgeously charted pattern for a minor issue like *fit*. After that, going down (no gag reflex, natch) in two-inch-down increments, I got 13", 11", 9.5", and then 9" on until to the heel flap split.
Using math, I generated decreases to match up to the distance-around. The first decrease I'm going to do anything with is the 14.5 to 13 one. That's an inch and a half, which, at ten stitches to the inch (which is probably close to right) and paired (because there are two strips of where-we-are-decreasing on each sock) for even numbers, is 8 instances (tenative, based on swatch gauge) of decreasing over (tenative) 20 rows of knitting. I charted that on my shitty little MS-Paint graph. Point-click-point-click. The next set of decreases is from 13" to 11", twenty stitches, ten instances of decreasing over 20 rows of knitting. I charted that, too. I continued on until I got to where there was no more charting to be done. (Because I wasn't really thinking, I assigned the top of the pattern work to be the top of the chart, though there is an inch or so of ribbing above it. For that reason, the portrayed decreases are about an inch below where they should be. This is not a major problem and since I don't have a rock-solid row gauge yet, I ain't all that pressed.)
When it comes time to implement this game plan in real life, I will knit down until I have four inches of sock from the beginning and then start the decreases at an appropriate rate no matter where I might be in the pattern. I have 1 3/4 inches of sock, here, so it's not like urgent, but all ya'll wanted a plan. (Sissies. Where's your spirit of adventure?) At any rate, here's a shitty MS-Paint image for proof-of-concept.
Then, because I'm a complete dweeb, I charted the damn thing collapsed (instead of leaving blank red space where the removed stitches were) to see if there were unpretty interactions in the assorted patterns. There aren't. Here's a picture of what that might look like. I believe I can tidy up the bit at the bottom where it goes into a nice chevron interaction, but I haven't done that yet.
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no subject
Date: 2006-10-10 02:28 am (UTC)